| Get Ready For Spring By Lalita Creighton |
Here in Missouri the winters can be cold, snowy, icy, warm, soggy, dry, you name it! Often
though, winter weather keeps us from riding as much as we do the rest of the year. Now is
the perfect time to check over your riding gear before spring, and correct any problems you
may find. Examine your saddle carefully for any areas where stitching is coming loose. Pay
particular attention to areas around riggings and stirrup leathers. Make sure the leather isn't
wearing thin, and that any adjustment holes (stirrup leathers, ties straps, off-billets etc) aren't
stretching out. Inspect ties and saddle strings to make sure they aren't cracking. Check any
rivets or other fasteners (such as screw-in conchos) to make sure they haven't ripped
through the leather. Also make sure they are still fastened securely. Replace any broken
items or items showing wear. If you're not comfortable making any needed repairs to your
saddle, find a qualified saddle maker and have them make the repairs for you. The money
invested is well-worth it, and may prevent a trip to the emergency room!
Horse sweat is very hard on leather because the salt draws the natural oils out of the leather.
If you leave dried sweat on leather, it will dry the leather out, and can lead to the leather
cracking. If your saddle is dry and cracking, clean and oil the leather to make it supple
again. Do not use neatsfoot oil compounds; rather, use pure neatsfoot oil. Neatsfoot
compounds can contain petroleum products, which aren't good for leather. Make sure you
don't over-oil your saddle, either. Over-oiled leather is not only sticky, it weakens and is
prone to stretching. How much oil to use depends primarily on the condition of the leather.
In general, it's better to give leather multiple light oilings than one heavy oiling. Follow the
manufacturer's directions to get the full benefit of the product chosen. I personally use Lexol
for most of my cleaning and conditioning. I also use Bick 1 and 4 on light oil tack that isn't
heavily soiled (show tack). I also use 100% neatsfoot oil.
Also inspect your bridles. Again, look for leather that is dry and cracking, or stretching
adjustment holes. Pay special attention to anywhere the leather is folded over tightly, like at
the bit attachments. Make sure all hardware is secure. Clean and oil your bridle. If you have
nylon or biothane tack, it's still important to make sure the bridle is safe to use and clean.
For nylon, you can wash the bridle straps (minus hardware) in a mild soap, making sure to
rinse well until there is no trace of soap left. For biothane bridles, follow the manufacturer's
recommendation for cleaning. Now's a great time to clean up that bit, too. Make sure there
are no sharp projections on the bit. Metal plating on bits, especially the lower quality ones,
can start to wear and chip over time, leading to sharp spots and corrosion.
Carefully inspect all of your saddle blankets or pads. Make sure the stitching (if applicable)
isn't coming loose, and that the foam or gel parts of the pad (if applicable) are still
cushioning correctly. Clean your saddle blankets or pads to get out any sweat, dirt, and
horse hair. Fungus such as rain rot can be transmitted from horse to horse through a saddle
blanket or pad, so keeping it clean should be a high priority. Dirty blankets and pads can
also cause sores on your horse's back. Always make sure there are no burrs, shavings, or
other particles stuck to your blanket or pad. At best, there will be a lump between your
saddle and blanket or pad, causing a sore spot. At worst, you'll poke your horse and he or
she will act very differently than to what you are accustomed!
Of course, you want to make sure to check your girths. Make sure they are clean and not
cracking or tearing. Make sure the buckles are securely attached. On Western girths, check
that your girth ring won't poke your horse in the elbow as he walks.
Now is also a good time to inspect your halters. Inspect them the same as you would any
other piece of tack. Tip: If the noseband, cheek pieces, and the crown/throatlatch pieces
are in good condition, but any of the 3 straps that connect under the jaw are worn, you can
remove those 3 straps and have a good grooming halter, great for clipping under the jaw.
Don't forget to inspect your saddle bags, too. D-rings can rust, nylon loops can rip, ties can
stretch or break, zippers can stop working, and Velcro can get filled with shavings and
other dirt. Dried horse sweat isn't good for your saddle bags either, so make sure to clean
them regularly.
Even though your horse trailer isn't a piece of tack, now is a good time to check it over.
Inspect the wiring, the floor, the windows, the roof vents, and the jack operation. Lubricate
your jack with a quality automotive grease. Make sure there are no broken welds or sharp
projection in the horse area. Fix any leaks around windows or seams with silicone sealant.
Re-pack your wheel bearings and re-charge your break-away battery. If you can, inspect
the structure underneath the floor, making sure there isn't a lot of rust or broken welds.
Check your tire inflation, and rotate your tires. Make sure your tires aren't showing
excessive or uneven tread wear. Ensure your lug nuts are tightened to the correct torque.
Check that your brake controller in your tow vehicle is working correctly. If you have an
owner's manual for your trailer, make sure to follow any maintenance recommendations
outlined in it.
Last, but certainly not least, is make sure your first aid kit is ready to go. Refill any items you
might have had to use last year, and replace any items that have expired. If you've stored
your kit year-round in your trailer, some items may have been affected by the heat or the
freeze/thaw process, so make sure to replace those, as well. There are lists for different
types of first aid kits in the "Lists" link on the left hand side of the main page on this site.
Then click "First Aid Kits" for a recommendation in what to carry in your trailer, in your
saddle bags, and with you.
though, winter weather keeps us from riding as much as we do the rest of the year. Now is
the perfect time to check over your riding gear before spring, and correct any problems you
may find. Examine your saddle carefully for any areas where stitching is coming loose. Pay
particular attention to areas around riggings and stirrup leathers. Make sure the leather isn't
wearing thin, and that any adjustment holes (stirrup leathers, ties straps, off-billets etc) aren't
stretching out. Inspect ties and saddle strings to make sure they aren't cracking. Check any
rivets or other fasteners (such as screw-in conchos) to make sure they haven't ripped
through the leather. Also make sure they are still fastened securely. Replace any broken
items or items showing wear. If you're not comfortable making any needed repairs to your
saddle, find a qualified saddle maker and have them make the repairs for you. The money
invested is well-worth it, and may prevent a trip to the emergency room!
Horse sweat is very hard on leather because the salt draws the natural oils out of the leather.
If you leave dried sweat on leather, it will dry the leather out, and can lead to the leather
cracking. If your saddle is dry and cracking, clean and oil the leather to make it supple
again. Do not use neatsfoot oil compounds; rather, use pure neatsfoot oil. Neatsfoot
compounds can contain petroleum products, which aren't good for leather. Make sure you
don't over-oil your saddle, either. Over-oiled leather is not only sticky, it weakens and is
prone to stretching. How much oil to use depends primarily on the condition of the leather.
In general, it's better to give leather multiple light oilings than one heavy oiling. Follow the
manufacturer's directions to get the full benefit of the product chosen. I personally use Lexol
for most of my cleaning and conditioning. I also use Bick 1 and 4 on light oil tack that isn't
heavily soiled (show tack). I also use 100% neatsfoot oil.
Also inspect your bridles. Again, look for leather that is dry and cracking, or stretching
adjustment holes. Pay special attention to anywhere the leather is folded over tightly, like at
the bit attachments. Make sure all hardware is secure. Clean and oil your bridle. If you have
nylon or biothane tack, it's still important to make sure the bridle is safe to use and clean.
For nylon, you can wash the bridle straps (minus hardware) in a mild soap, making sure to
rinse well until there is no trace of soap left. For biothane bridles, follow the manufacturer's
recommendation for cleaning. Now's a great time to clean up that bit, too. Make sure there
are no sharp projections on the bit. Metal plating on bits, especially the lower quality ones,
can start to wear and chip over time, leading to sharp spots and corrosion.
Carefully inspect all of your saddle blankets or pads. Make sure the stitching (if applicable)
isn't coming loose, and that the foam or gel parts of the pad (if applicable) are still
cushioning correctly. Clean your saddle blankets or pads to get out any sweat, dirt, and
horse hair. Fungus such as rain rot can be transmitted from horse to horse through a saddle
blanket or pad, so keeping it clean should be a high priority. Dirty blankets and pads can
also cause sores on your horse's back. Always make sure there are no burrs, shavings, or
other particles stuck to your blanket or pad. At best, there will be a lump between your
saddle and blanket or pad, causing a sore spot. At worst, you'll poke your horse and he or
she will act very differently than to what you are accustomed!
Of course, you want to make sure to check your girths. Make sure they are clean and not
cracking or tearing. Make sure the buckles are securely attached. On Western girths, check
that your girth ring won't poke your horse in the elbow as he walks.
Now is also a good time to inspect your halters. Inspect them the same as you would any
other piece of tack. Tip: If the noseband, cheek pieces, and the crown/throatlatch pieces
are in good condition, but any of the 3 straps that connect under the jaw are worn, you can
remove those 3 straps and have a good grooming halter, great for clipping under the jaw.
Don't forget to inspect your saddle bags, too. D-rings can rust, nylon loops can rip, ties can
stretch or break, zippers can stop working, and Velcro can get filled with shavings and
other dirt. Dried horse sweat isn't good for your saddle bags either, so make sure to clean
them regularly.
Even though your horse trailer isn't a piece of tack, now is a good time to check it over.
Inspect the wiring, the floor, the windows, the roof vents, and the jack operation. Lubricate
your jack with a quality automotive grease. Make sure there are no broken welds or sharp
projection in the horse area. Fix any leaks around windows or seams with silicone sealant.
Re-pack your wheel bearings and re-charge your break-away battery. If you can, inspect
the structure underneath the floor, making sure there isn't a lot of rust or broken welds.
Check your tire inflation, and rotate your tires. Make sure your tires aren't showing
excessive or uneven tread wear. Ensure your lug nuts are tightened to the correct torque.
Check that your brake controller in your tow vehicle is working correctly. If you have an
owner's manual for your trailer, make sure to follow any maintenance recommendations
outlined in it.
Last, but certainly not least, is make sure your first aid kit is ready to go. Refill any items you
might have had to use last year, and replace any items that have expired. If you've stored
your kit year-round in your trailer, some items may have been affected by the heat or the
freeze/thaw process, so make sure to replace those, as well. There are lists for different
types of first aid kits in the "Lists" link on the left hand side of the main page on this site.
Then click "First Aid Kits" for a recommendation in what to carry in your trailer, in your
saddle bags, and with you.
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