You pull the dial out to unlock the reel mechanism, stretch the tongue of the boot open, push the
boot onto the hoof, and set the hoof on the ground to set it in the boot properly. Sometimes
twisting the boot from side to side a little bit while you're pushing it on the hoof helps. Push the
dial in, and tighten the dial clockwise until the boot is tightened per the manufacturer's
recommendations. Tightening the dial draws the metal laces into the reel mechanism, drawing the
boot snugly around your horse's hoof. There's a protective cap that you screw over the dial to
protect the mechanism from dirt. Make sure you turn the cap clockwise until it stops clicking,
but don’t force it past the last click. The word “BOA” should be horizontal. If not, take it off
and screw it on again until it is.
Removing the boot only requires that you unscrew the cap, pull the dial out, pull out on the
tongue, and pull the boot off. There is a pull loop on the back of the boot to help pull the boot off
the hoof. One advantage of this boot is there is no left or right boot to keep straight, and it fits a
variety of hoof shapes well since it draws up around the hoof. This boot is also only one of a
few to be recommended by the American Association of Natural Hoof Care Practitioners. You
can read their endorsement here:
http://www.aanhcp.org/page13.html
I have ridden my horse – actually, all three of my horses – on all sorts of terrain with them:
creeks, mud, shale, pavement, dirt, grass, gravel, hard clay, you name it! I’ve been using the
boots for two years now and am very pleased with their performance. The boots give your
horse really good traction on pavement and shale, but they can be a bit slippery on wet grass (so
can metal horseshoes for that matter.) I typically haven't had trouble with losing a boots except
for if a lace broke or the one incident I call the “Man from Snowy River Incident”. While going
down a very steep embankment, he stepped on one front boot with his other front boot, and
managed to push it off his hoof. The horse, the rider (me), and the boot were all undamaged. I
have had some trouble with the protective caps popping off while riding, especially on rocky
terrain. I've recovered some of the caps, but others are still out on the trail somewhere. I think
I'll spray paint the rest of mine orange to make it easier to find them. Also, the metal laces can
(and eventually do) break. I’ve found a lace lasts me a riding season. If I try to use them a
second season, the friction from tightening and loosening the lace in the reel causes it to fray and
then break when the boot is put under stress, like in deep mud. If you ride more than me, the
laces might not last as long. Later in this review I talk more about changing them.
One thing to be aware of is that many times, horse's hoof sizes change when they transition to
barefoot, so you may end up needing a larger size boot than you started with. Often, the front
boots that are too small will still fit the hind hooves if your horse needs boots on his hinds.
There are also boot swap websites and of course regular classified advertisements, internet and
traditional, if you would like to sell your old boots. If they are in decent condition, there is a
reasonable market for them.
Even though these boots are sold in pairs, you can sometimes get a single boot through Easy Care
directly which is handy if you want to carry a spare in your saddle bag. Trust me, it’s much
nicer to have a spare with you to put on your horse if a lace on the boot breaks and it comes off.
I wouldn’t recommend planning on changing a lace out on the trail. It’s not hard but would be a
pain to do in that situation.
Over time, you may be able to stop using the boots altogether when you ride, depending on
terrain, your horse's trim, and your horse's hooves. It took 6 months before my gelding needed
larger boots in front, but 10 months before he needed them for his hinds. Instead of purchasing
larger boots for his hinds, I've left him barefoot in back and he's done very well. I also
periodically ride him without boots on our gravel road and have ridden out on the trail completely
barefoot some as well.
I am now trimming all of my horses according to the wild model as described by Jamie Jackson
and Pete Ramey. Some of their teachings over time have changed, but I’m sticking with their
earlier work and having good success. I’m also working with a competent barefoot trimmer to
make sure that my trims are correct. I’ve noticed lots of improvements in my horses as I’ve
pursued a more natural lifestyle for them. There are a lot of websites and information out there,
and like farriers, there are good ones and bad ones. Research the subject carefully and always
question the “truths”. If you are looking for a good trimmer, make sure to get references and
check them. There are good and bad trimmers, too.
Replacement caps and laces are available from Easy Care and some other tack catalogs or
websites. Caps cost around $2, and laces around $5. The reel is also replaceable (around $20),
and is available from Boa Technology—you need the Series 20 reel. The laces come with
instructions and a removal tool. The reel comes with the removal tool as well.
I have a few hints on changing your laces. First, make sure you order the correct length laces
for your boots. The boot size and lace length is on a tag inside the boot. You will probably need
a pair of pliers to pull the lace out of the reel mechanism. Trying to grip that thin metal lace with
your hand and pull hard enough to get the lace out is painful.
If you are replacing a broken lace, usually one side of the lace is very short. Make sure that
doesn’t get pulled into the reel or you will have to disassemble the reel to get it back out.
Feed your lace through the center lace guide first, then make sure to run the lace up through the
side lace guides in the boot before you try to secure the ends. Do not attempt to feed the end of
the lace all the way through the reel and out the other side. Insert one lace end on each side of
the reel, just until it is visible in the little viewing window, then secure it by tightening the set
screw.
Getting to the lace to come out of the lace guide on the side of the boot (at the top near the reel)
can be challenging. Reaching in with something like a needle to help coax it 'around the corner'
can really help.
Here is a link to the spare parts section of Boa Technology’s website (not Easy Care). You can
order new reels or laces by the pair here. Easy Care and some tack catalogs sell laces
individually. Caps are only available from Easy Care and some catalogs.
https://www.boatechnology.com/boa.php?section=support&page=consumer&drill=spare_parts
Here is a link to the installation instructions for laces and reels.
https://www.boatechnology.com/downloads/dealer_technical_manual_boa.pdf
Easy Care will also perform repairs to your boots at a reasonable cost. I had a boot get dirt stuck
in the reel mechanism, causing the lace to not release properly. Even following the instructions I
couldn’t get the reel out of the boot to clean it, so I sent it to Easy Care and they did it for me for
a cost of $2 plus shipping to return the boot to me. Since I couldn’t really use the boot
otherwise, it was a cost-effective solution as I’d have needed to buy a new boot otherwise.
Here is a link to pictures, sizing information, use instructions, accessories, and tips and tricks,
and spare parts for the Boa Boots. No affiliation, just very pleased with the product and
customer service from Easy Care. Boots are currently (2007) priced at $155 (by Easy Care) per
pair and come with a pair of gaiters. Some catalogs or websites have lower prices, and can help
you save on shipping costs.
http://www.easycareinc.com/our_boots/boa_horse_boot/Boa-Boots.aspx
boot onto the hoof, and set the hoof on the ground to set it in the boot properly. Sometimes
twisting the boot from side to side a little bit while you're pushing it on the hoof helps. Push the
dial in, and tighten the dial clockwise until the boot is tightened per the manufacturer's
recommendations. Tightening the dial draws the metal laces into the reel mechanism, drawing the
boot snugly around your horse's hoof. There's a protective cap that you screw over the dial to
protect the mechanism from dirt. Make sure you turn the cap clockwise until it stops clicking,
but don’t force it past the last click. The word “BOA” should be horizontal. If not, take it off
and screw it on again until it is.
Removing the boot only requires that you unscrew the cap, pull the dial out, pull out on the
tongue, and pull the boot off. There is a pull loop on the back of the boot to help pull the boot off
the hoof. One advantage of this boot is there is no left or right boot to keep straight, and it fits a
variety of hoof shapes well since it draws up around the hoof. This boot is also only one of a
few to be recommended by the American Association of Natural Hoof Care Practitioners. You
can read their endorsement here:
http://www.aanhcp.org/page13.html
I have ridden my horse – actually, all three of my horses – on all sorts of terrain with them:
creeks, mud, shale, pavement, dirt, grass, gravel, hard clay, you name it! I’ve been using the
boots for two years now and am very pleased with their performance. The boots give your
horse really good traction on pavement and shale, but they can be a bit slippery on wet grass (so
can metal horseshoes for that matter.) I typically haven't had trouble with losing a boots except
for if a lace broke or the one incident I call the “Man from Snowy River Incident”. While going
down a very steep embankment, he stepped on one front boot with his other front boot, and
managed to push it off his hoof. The horse, the rider (me), and the boot were all undamaged. I
have had some trouble with the protective caps popping off while riding, especially on rocky
terrain. I've recovered some of the caps, but others are still out on the trail somewhere. I think
I'll spray paint the rest of mine orange to make it easier to find them. Also, the metal laces can
(and eventually do) break. I’ve found a lace lasts me a riding season. If I try to use them a
second season, the friction from tightening and loosening the lace in the reel causes it to fray and
then break when the boot is put under stress, like in deep mud. If you ride more than me, the
laces might not last as long. Later in this review I talk more about changing them.
One thing to be aware of is that many times, horse's hoof sizes change when they transition to
barefoot, so you may end up needing a larger size boot than you started with. Often, the front
boots that are too small will still fit the hind hooves if your horse needs boots on his hinds.
There are also boot swap websites and of course regular classified advertisements, internet and
traditional, if you would like to sell your old boots. If they are in decent condition, there is a
reasonable market for them.
Even though these boots are sold in pairs, you can sometimes get a single boot through Easy Care
directly which is handy if you want to carry a spare in your saddle bag. Trust me, it’s much
nicer to have a spare with you to put on your horse if a lace on the boot breaks and it comes off.
I wouldn’t recommend planning on changing a lace out on the trail. It’s not hard but would be a
pain to do in that situation.
Over time, you may be able to stop using the boots altogether when you ride, depending on
terrain, your horse's trim, and your horse's hooves. It took 6 months before my gelding needed
larger boots in front, but 10 months before he needed them for his hinds. Instead of purchasing
larger boots for his hinds, I've left him barefoot in back and he's done very well. I also
periodically ride him without boots on our gravel road and have ridden out on the trail completely
barefoot some as well.
I am now trimming all of my horses according to the wild model as described by Jamie Jackson
and Pete Ramey. Some of their teachings over time have changed, but I’m sticking with their
earlier work and having good success. I’m also working with a competent barefoot trimmer to
make sure that my trims are correct. I’ve noticed lots of improvements in my horses as I’ve
pursued a more natural lifestyle for them. There are a lot of websites and information out there,
and like farriers, there are good ones and bad ones. Research the subject carefully and always
question the “truths”. If you are looking for a good trimmer, make sure to get references and
check them. There are good and bad trimmers, too.
Replacement caps and laces are available from Easy Care and some other tack catalogs or
websites. Caps cost around $2, and laces around $5. The reel is also replaceable (around $20),
and is available from Boa Technology—you need the Series 20 reel. The laces come with
instructions and a removal tool. The reel comes with the removal tool as well.
I have a few hints on changing your laces. First, make sure you order the correct length laces
for your boots. The boot size and lace length is on a tag inside the boot. You will probably need
a pair of pliers to pull the lace out of the reel mechanism. Trying to grip that thin metal lace with
your hand and pull hard enough to get the lace out is painful.
If you are replacing a broken lace, usually one side of the lace is very short. Make sure that
doesn’t get pulled into the reel or you will have to disassemble the reel to get it back out.
Feed your lace through the center lace guide first, then make sure to run the lace up through the
side lace guides in the boot before you try to secure the ends. Do not attempt to feed the end of
the lace all the way through the reel and out the other side. Insert one lace end on each side of
the reel, just until it is visible in the little viewing window, then secure it by tightening the set
screw.
Getting to the lace to come out of the lace guide on the side of the boot (at the top near the reel)
can be challenging. Reaching in with something like a needle to help coax it 'around the corner'
can really help.
Here is a link to the spare parts section of Boa Technology’s website (not Easy Care). You can
order new reels or laces by the pair here. Easy Care and some tack catalogs sell laces
individually. Caps are only available from Easy Care and some catalogs.
https://www.boatechnology.com/boa.php?section=support&page=consumer&drill=spare_parts
Here is a link to the installation instructions for laces and reels.
https://www.boatechnology.com/downloads/dealer_technical_manual_boa.pdf
Easy Care will also perform repairs to your boots at a reasonable cost. I had a boot get dirt stuck
in the reel mechanism, causing the lace to not release properly. Even following the instructions I
couldn’t get the reel out of the boot to clean it, so I sent it to Easy Care and they did it for me for
a cost of $2 plus shipping to return the boot to me. Since I couldn’t really use the boot
otherwise, it was a cost-effective solution as I’d have needed to buy a new boot otherwise.
Here is a link to pictures, sizing information, use instructions, accessories, and tips and tricks,
and spare parts for the Boa Boots. No affiliation, just very pleased with the product and
customer service from Easy Care. Boots are currently (2007) priced at $155 (by Easy Care) per
pair and come with a pair of gaiters. Some catalogs or websites have lower prices, and can help
you save on shipping costs.
http://www.easycareinc.com/our_boots/boa_horse_boot/Boa-Boots.aspx
| Boa Horse Boots Review (With Gaiters) By Lalita Creighton Updated May 2007 |
| Copyright 2006-2007 Missouri Trailblazing.com. All Rights Reserved |
| If this information was helpful to you, please help support Missouri Trailblazing: |
| We Thank you!!! |
Several years ago I switched from traditional nailed-on iron horseshoes to Boa horse boots for
several reasons. First, my horse would manage to step off his front shoes almost weekly, and
sometimes more than once a week. Second, I felt that natural hoof care had some potential
benefits and I felt transitioning from shoes to boots was a good first step. Third, I felt there
might be a cost benefit to using the boots. Horseshoes wear regardless of whether or not you’re
riding, but hoof boots only wear when your horse needs them.
several reasons. First, my horse would manage to step off his front shoes almost weekly, and
sometimes more than once a week. Second, I felt that natural hoof care had some potential
benefits and I felt transitioning from shoes to boots was a good first step. Third, I felt there
might be a cost benefit to using the boots. Horseshoes wear regardless of whether or not you’re
riding, but hoof boots only wear when your horse needs them.
Once I decided to pursue boots, I had to figure out
which type to buy. I didn’t want boots that had
teeth that gripped the hoof wall. I didn’t want the
boots to be hard to get on and off, or require tools
to do so, and I didn’t want boots that were
specific for right and left hooves and front and
hind hooves (except as hoof size would dictate.)
After quite a bit of research, I decided to try the
Boa horse boots with gaiters. The gaiters help keep
sand and dirt from getting into the boot and help
prevent rubbing. They also help make the boots fit
if your horse’s hoof is on the small side for that
size, or if your horse has a lighter bone structure.
The boots are fairly easy to put on and they lace
up like snowboarders boots.
which type to buy. I didn’t want boots that had
teeth that gripped the hoof wall. I didn’t want the
boots to be hard to get on and off, or require tools
to do so, and I didn’t want boots that were
specific for right and left hooves and front and
hind hooves (except as hoof size would dictate.)
After quite a bit of research, I decided to try the
Boa horse boots with gaiters. The gaiters help keep
sand and dirt from getting into the boot and help
prevent rubbing. They also help make the boots fit
if your horse’s hoof is on the small side for that
size, or if your horse has a lighter bone structure.
The boots are fairly easy to put on and they lace
up like snowboarders boots.