1. Ride with a buddy whenever possible.
2. Always make sure someone knows where you are going and when you plan to be back.
3. Train your horse to allow you to mount and dismount from both sides.
4. Make sure your horse will allow you to put a jacket and poncho on and take them back off.
5. Desensitize your horse to the sound of velcro, zippers, and your cell phone.
6. Take a map and compass, even if you have a GPS, & make sure you know how to use them.
7. Carry spare batteries for your GPS.
8. If you have a mapping GPS, you can help conserve battery power by having the page set to
something that doesn't constantly refresh. The map page constantly refreshes, as does
the compass page if yours has one. Set it to a menu page or something else that doesn't
refresh. It only takes a second to switch to the map or compass if needed.
9. Some horses may not drink water at a new place. You can add a little cherry Kool-Aid to his
water at home to get him used to it. Then add the Kool-Aid to the water at the new place
and he should be used to the taste and drink it up.
10. Condition your horse for the length of ride you want to take, and for the terrain in which
you'll be riding.
11. If riding in the mountains, and you don't normally, give your horse (and yourself) three days
to acclimate to the oxygen levels before trying to do any serious riding. Your horse may
not be able to be ridden as long at the higher altitudes as at home.
12. If you use large saddlebags behind your saddle, make sure not to overload them. Heavier
objects should be placed in pommel bags in front of the saddle.
13. Carry a halter/lead rope in your saddlebags.
14. Carry a first aid kit for you and your horse.
15. Carry a rain poncho, emergency blanket, water, water purification tablets,and some energy
bars. Keep these items on you, not on your horse. They won't help him as much as they
will you if you get separated.
16. Teach your horse to picket, hobble, highline, or whatever method of restraint BEFORE you
go on a camping trip.
17. Carry a sponge tied to your saddle with a long string. You can dip it in the water and then
either sponge you or your horse off to help cool down.
18. Use insect repellant in areas with lots of ticks or flies, both on you and your horse.
19. Carry a shoo-fly stick to help get those pesky horseflies off your horse's rump. You can
reach the flies without having to twist around in your saddle.
20. Carry a spare hoof boot if your horse is shod or you ride in hoof boots. Doing so could save
you a long hike back.
21. Don't wear perfume or use fruit or flower scented shampoos or lotions during the months
that flies and bees/wasps are active.
22. Carry a few large zip ties or some leather straps for emergency tack repair.
23. Keep your tow vehicle and trailer well-maintained and serviced.
24. Check your wheel lugs on both your tow vehicle and trailer on a regular basis.
25. Always make sure your trailer lights are working correctly.
26. Always double-check your hitch is secured properly. One of the main causes of trailer
accidents is not doing so.
27. Don't forget your horse's negative Coggins and any health papers required, especially when
crossing state lines.
28. If you are going out of state, determine if you need a brand inspection certificate.
29. Confirm if the place you are going requires certified weed-free hay.
30. Mark your horse with some sort of visible ID system in case he should become lost. A dog
tag attached to his mane with fishing line is a good option.
31. Microchip your horse.
32. Prepare a "lost horse" type of flyer without the date and place, but complete with contact
information and color photographs of your horse. Keep it in your tow vehicle or trailer.
Then if the unthinkable happens you've got a head-start on providing the information to
authorities and posting flyers. Fill in the date and place, any other details, and then go to
the closest Fed-Ex Kinkos or other copy center.
33. Carry a small notebook and pencil. You can then make any notes you wish about the trail,
especially downed trees or other problems requiring the land steward's attention. Try to
indicate where on the trail the hazards are located.
34. For reference, the average horse walks between 2 and 4 mph depending on terrain and
personality. This information may help you decide how long of a trail is appropriate for
you and your horse.
35. Keep your GPS and cell phone on your person. Your horse will have a lot more trouble with
the buttons should you become separated.
36. Be aware that many wilderness areas have no cell phone coverage. Also, many GPS
receivers do not get good satellite reception when in heavy tree cover or in deep, narrow
canyons. Don't assume you can rely on either of these devices in an emergency.
37. Make sure your horse is acclimated or desensitized to the common sorts of things you might
find on a trail - ATV's, bicycles, backpackers, bridges (concrete and wooden), cars (on
road crossings, hopefully not on the trail), culverts, creeks, tents, and so forth. Obviously
you can never expose to every possible thing you might encounter, but expose them to
enough things you are confident they will be manageable when faced with something new.
38. Teach your horse an emergency stop, also called a one-rein stop. There are many good
articles, books, and DVD's out there that will walk you through teaching this to your horse.
Make sure you teach it to both sides, not just one or the other.
39. Be aware of the hunting seasons and if the place you plan to ride allows hunting. (Things like
rabbit season are not a concern, but deer (elk etc) and turkey seasons are a concern.)
40. Wear some hunter orange or attach it to your saddle when riding during hunting seasons,
even if you're not riding somewhere that hunting is allowed.
41. Make sure the place you are going is open for riding. Storm damage and other reasons can
cause trail closures. Doing so will ensure you don't drive a long way to ride somewhere,
only to find out you have to turn around and leave.
43. Stay to the marked trail. Short cutting switchbacks and detouring around muddy patches
only leads to erosion problems.
44. Don't ride muddy trails. Instead find somewhere that will allow riding on the gravel roads,
like in a national forest.
45. Don't leave litter for others to pick up. Pick up trash you see if possible, and leave the place
nicer than you found it.
46. Don't tie your horse directly to trees. It damages the bark, and horses pawing at the base of
the tree can damage the root system.
48. Using tree savers (nylon belts) and rope to picket animals between trees.
49. You can make your own tree savers with seat belt webbing or old cinches.
50. Teach your horse to yield to pressure. Then if he gets hung up in something (his legs, tail,
your stirrups, the reins, whatever) he's less likely to panic and get someone hurt. There
are many good articles, books, and DVD's on this topic as well.
51. Keep less experienced horses and riders in the middle of the group, and have both a
designated ride leader and drag rider. Obviously if you only have a couple of horses and
riders, this won't apply.
52. Develop a system of both voice and hand signals to indicate things such as stopping or
loping/gaiting.
53. Be courteous to other trail users. Even though bicyclists and hikers are supposed to yield to
equestrians, they may not know that or the situation may make that difficult. If it's easier
for you to get off the trail and let them by, do so.
54. Smaller groups of riders should yield to larger groups of riders.
55. Riders should yield to pack strings.
56. Downhill trail users yield to uphill trail users, regardless if equestrian, hiker, or bicyclist.
57. Keep a horse length between horses to avoid kicking accidents and "rear-endings".
58. Stay alert and be aware of other trail users, general weather conditions, and other potential
trail hazards or obstacles. Don't just watch the trail between your horse's ears.
59. Some riders say a dryer sheet tied in their horse's tail repels flies.
60. If you have to cross a road, make sure to stop your horse and look and listen for cars. If you
need to have a motorist slow down, and you can safely signal them, holding your arm
straight out and then moving it up and down from the shoulder is a generally understood
sign for "slow down".
61. If you will be riding deep into backcountry wilderness, consider learning the proper
techniques for humanely euthanizing your horse, and carry the equipment necessary to do
so. If severely injured on the trail, you may not have any other options.
62. While camping, make sure to find out and abide by all regulations concerning fires. Wild fires
are a serious threat and possibility in some areas.
63. Drink responsibly. Riding while drunk endangers you, your horse, and other trail users.
Alcohol consumption also increases dehydrates you.
64. Allow your horse to cool down before allowing him to drink a lot of water or eat grain. Offer
small amounts of water at first and clean, fresh hay.
65. Allow your horse plenty of time to eat his grain before trailering or riding.
66. Invest in a good pair of riding boots that are also comfortable enough to hike out of the area if
it becomes necessary. Cowboy boots are great for riding, not so great for hiking.
67. Make sure to carry a knife that can cut through your horse's halter, lead rope, etc. in case of
emergency.
68. Make sure to carry a hoof pick. It's an often overlooked item that can be invaluable.
69. If your horse is shod, spray cooking oil spray on the bottom of your horse's hooves to help
keep snow and ice from balling up in his hoof.
70. In cooler weather, dress in several layers. You can always remove layers if you get too
warm. Look for thinner items with good thermal properties. Otherwise you'll feel like the
Stay-Puft Marshmallow Man trying to ride your horse in too many clothes.
71. Try to keep yourself in good physical condition. It will make your horse's job easier, and
yours if you have to hike out of where you're riding.
72. If your horse tosses his head a lot because of flies, consider the Cashel Quiet Ride Fly Mask.
It's designed to be used while riding. From personal experience I can tell you these work
wonders.
73. If you use hay nets to give your horses hay in or at the trailer, don't just tie the tie string to
the tie loop on your trailer. Run the tie string through the netting near the bottom and then
tie it to the tie loop. As your horse eats his hay, the bag won't droop down, possibly
allowing him to get a leg caught.
74. Consider attaching a bell to your horse's saddle, especially if you ride in bear country. It will
also warn other trail users that may be just out of sight that there is someone else on the
trail.
75. Accustom your horse to the feel of loaded saddle bags at all gaits before heading out on the
trail.
76. There are no-bounce saddlebags like Easy Care Stowaways or Snug Pax that make it easier
on your horse to carry saddle bags.
77. Make sure to distribute the weight evenly in your saddle bags.
78. Make sure that hard objects, like hoof boots, won't slap your horse's side with every stride or
he'll end up sore.
79. Use a breastcollar, crupper, and rear cinch as needed. Make sure accustom your horse to
them before you hit the trail.
80. Always connect your rear cinch to your front cinch.
81. Adjust your rear cinch tight enough that a hind hoof can't get caught, but loose enough so
that it won't constrict your horse and annoy him.
82. Periodically check behind you while going down the trail. Then if you have to back-track, it
won't be as unfamiliar and will be easier to find your way.
83. Smaller buckets, like 2-1/2 gallon size, are great for carrying water to your horse if you need
to tote it more than a few feet. The bucket is lighter and easier to manage, although you'll
have to walk back and forth more often. They also take up less space in your tack or
dressing room.
84. Five-gallon gasoline cans that are brand-new and never had gasoline in them make great
containers to take water with you to places that don't have water available. They come
with a handy pour spout and everything. Make sure to mark them clearly though so they
don't accidentally get used for something other than water, or get poured into a gas tank!
85. At campsites and in public facilities like tie stalls, round pens, or picket areas make sure to
scatter your horse's manure outside of the general use area. Or, clean it up and dispose of
in your compost pile at home, or in any designated manure disposal area. Always follow
any posted or special rules regarding manure clean-up.
86. If you will be riding with a large group of horses, and your horse has never done so, he may
act differently than you expect. Be prepared to do what it takes to keep everyone safe,
even if that means not going out on the ride if your horse is unmanageable.
87. Although it is safest to not ride alone, if you choose to do so make sure someone knows
where you are going and when you plan to be back. Take a cell phone, although you may
not get service, and take a map, compass, and other basic survival necessities with you.
Make sure you are riding a seasoned, reliable horse. Even the best horse can slip or get
scared.
88. Use sunscreen. You'd be surprised just how much sun you can get on a ride, especially
before the trees leaf out and after they lose their leaves. Plus, many trails go through
meadows or glades which can be very sunny.
89. Wear a quality riding helmet. Make sure to get one that is specifically designed for equestrian
use--bicycle helmets don't cut it. There are many new designs that are lighter and better
ventilated than ever.
90. Maintain at least a horse-length between your horse and the one in front of you. If they stop
suddenly, you are less likely to run into them. Plus, you are less likely to get kicked if the
horse in front of you gets annoyed with being "tail-gaited".
91. Make sure your horse is comfortable jumping over small obstacles at home before attempting
it on a trail ride. Make sure he isn't frightened of his saddle bags or any other gear that may
flap or bounce.
92. Even if your horse jumps well at home, he may be nervous jumping over a trail obstacle. Be
patient, and stay safe. It's better to go around the obstacle if necessary and try it again
another time.
93. Don't bathe your horse in rivers or cross in non-designated areas. Water quality is a big
concern from some areas, and land management agencies are willing to restrict horse access
if we don't stick to the designated crossings.
94. Check yourself and your horse for ticks after each ride. Lyme disease and other tick-borne
diseases typically aren't transmitted until the tick has been attached for 24-48 hours. Make
sure to not leave the head behind, as it can cause an infection.
95. Use rubbing alcohol or a product like Tecnu to wipe your skin if you come in contact with
poison ivy. The chemical in poison ivy responsible for the rash can get onto clothing,
sleeping bags, tents, and other fabric items and cause break-outs the next time you use the
item, even after a year or more. Wash items as soon as possible after exposure.
96. If you encounter a nest/swarm of yellow jackets, split up and go in as many directions as
possible, meeting up further down the trail. Yell "Bee!" instead of "Run!", so that nobody
sticks around to ask "Why?".
97. Carry a "sting" stick with you to provide relief from any itchy or painful bug bites or stings.
98. Stay alert and be cautious on the trail. It's not unheard of for fugitives to hide out in
wilderness areas, or for there to be illegal activity such as drug dealing, manufacturing, or
growing. Don't confront anyone, and if you think you may be approaching an area where
meth is being manufactured, for example, turn around and leave. Contact the authorities
and let them take care of it. Trust your instincts about other trail users. If something
doesn't feel right, it probably isn't. Leave.
99. Periodically check the condition of your tack. Make sure straps aren't starting to split or
dry-rot, especially your girth straps, off-billets, and bridle. Clean and condition your tack as
necessary. Sweaty, dirty tack is more prone to breaking, usually at the worst possible
moment.
100. Acclimate your horse to any new tack (such as a different bit, a new saddle, etc.) before
you take him out on the trail.
101. Most important of all, don't forget to have FUN!
.
2. Always make sure someone knows where you are going and when you plan to be back.
3. Train your horse to allow you to mount and dismount from both sides.
4. Make sure your horse will allow you to put a jacket and poncho on and take them back off.
5. Desensitize your horse to the sound of velcro, zippers, and your cell phone.
6. Take a map and compass, even if you have a GPS, & make sure you know how to use them.
7. Carry spare batteries for your GPS.
8. If you have a mapping GPS, you can help conserve battery power by having the page set to
something that doesn't constantly refresh. The map page constantly refreshes, as does
the compass page if yours has one. Set it to a menu page or something else that doesn't
refresh. It only takes a second to switch to the map or compass if needed.
9. Some horses may not drink water at a new place. You can add a little cherry Kool-Aid to his
water at home to get him used to it. Then add the Kool-Aid to the water at the new place
and he should be used to the taste and drink it up.
10. Condition your horse for the length of ride you want to take, and for the terrain in which
you'll be riding.
11. If riding in the mountains, and you don't normally, give your horse (and yourself) three days
to acclimate to the oxygen levels before trying to do any serious riding. Your horse may
not be able to be ridden as long at the higher altitudes as at home.
12. If you use large saddlebags behind your saddle, make sure not to overload them. Heavier
objects should be placed in pommel bags in front of the saddle.
13. Carry a halter/lead rope in your saddlebags.
14. Carry a first aid kit for you and your horse.
15. Carry a rain poncho, emergency blanket, water, water purification tablets,and some energy
bars. Keep these items on you, not on your horse. They won't help him as much as they
will you if you get separated.
16. Teach your horse to picket, hobble, highline, or whatever method of restraint BEFORE you
go on a camping trip.
17. Carry a sponge tied to your saddle with a long string. You can dip it in the water and then
either sponge you or your horse off to help cool down.
18. Use insect repellant in areas with lots of ticks or flies, both on you and your horse.
19. Carry a shoo-fly stick to help get those pesky horseflies off your horse's rump. You can
reach the flies without having to twist around in your saddle.
20. Carry a spare hoof boot if your horse is shod or you ride in hoof boots. Doing so could save
you a long hike back.
21. Don't wear perfume or use fruit or flower scented shampoos or lotions during the months
that flies and bees/wasps are active.
22. Carry a few large zip ties or some leather straps for emergency tack repair.
23. Keep your tow vehicle and trailer well-maintained and serviced.
24. Check your wheel lugs on both your tow vehicle and trailer on a regular basis.
25. Always make sure your trailer lights are working correctly.
26. Always double-check your hitch is secured properly. One of the main causes of trailer
accidents is not doing so.
27. Don't forget your horse's negative Coggins and any health papers required, especially when
crossing state lines.
28. If you are going out of state, determine if you need a brand inspection certificate.
29. Confirm if the place you are going requires certified weed-free hay.
30. Mark your horse with some sort of visible ID system in case he should become lost. A dog
tag attached to his mane with fishing line is a good option.
31. Microchip your horse.
32. Prepare a "lost horse" type of flyer without the date and place, but complete with contact
information and color photographs of your horse. Keep it in your tow vehicle or trailer.
Then if the unthinkable happens you've got a head-start on providing the information to
authorities and posting flyers. Fill in the date and place, any other details, and then go to
the closest Fed-Ex Kinkos or other copy center.
33. Carry a small notebook and pencil. You can then make any notes you wish about the trail,
especially downed trees or other problems requiring the land steward's attention. Try to
indicate where on the trail the hazards are located.
34. For reference, the average horse walks between 2 and 4 mph depending on terrain and
personality. This information may help you decide how long of a trail is appropriate for
you and your horse.
35. Keep your GPS and cell phone on your person. Your horse will have a lot more trouble with
the buttons should you become separated.
36. Be aware that many wilderness areas have no cell phone coverage. Also, many GPS
receivers do not get good satellite reception when in heavy tree cover or in deep, narrow
canyons. Don't assume you can rely on either of these devices in an emergency.
37. Make sure your horse is acclimated or desensitized to the common sorts of things you might
find on a trail - ATV's, bicycles, backpackers, bridges (concrete and wooden), cars (on
road crossings, hopefully not on the trail), culverts, creeks, tents, and so forth. Obviously
you can never expose to every possible thing you might encounter, but expose them to
enough things you are confident they will be manageable when faced with something new.
38. Teach your horse an emergency stop, also called a one-rein stop. There are many good
articles, books, and DVD's out there that will walk you through teaching this to your horse.
Make sure you teach it to both sides, not just one or the other.
39. Be aware of the hunting seasons and if the place you plan to ride allows hunting. (Things like
rabbit season are not a concern, but deer (elk etc) and turkey seasons are a concern.)
40. Wear some hunter orange or attach it to your saddle when riding during hunting seasons,
even if you're not riding somewhere that hunting is allowed.
41. Make sure the place you are going is open for riding. Storm damage and other reasons can
cause trail closures. Doing so will ensure you don't drive a long way to ride somewhere,
only to find out you have to turn around and leave.
43. Stay to the marked trail. Short cutting switchbacks and detouring around muddy patches
only leads to erosion problems.
44. Don't ride muddy trails. Instead find somewhere that will allow riding on the gravel roads,
like in a national forest.
45. Don't leave litter for others to pick up. Pick up trash you see if possible, and leave the place
nicer than you found it.
46. Don't tie your horse directly to trees. It damages the bark, and horses pawing at the base of
the tree can damage the root system.
48. Using tree savers (nylon belts) and rope to picket animals between trees.
49. You can make your own tree savers with seat belt webbing or old cinches.
50. Teach your horse to yield to pressure. Then if he gets hung up in something (his legs, tail,
your stirrups, the reins, whatever) he's less likely to panic and get someone hurt. There
are many good articles, books, and DVD's on this topic as well.
51. Keep less experienced horses and riders in the middle of the group, and have both a
designated ride leader and drag rider. Obviously if you only have a couple of horses and
riders, this won't apply.
52. Develop a system of both voice and hand signals to indicate things such as stopping or
loping/gaiting.
53. Be courteous to other trail users. Even though bicyclists and hikers are supposed to yield to
equestrians, they may not know that or the situation may make that difficult. If it's easier
for you to get off the trail and let them by, do so.
54. Smaller groups of riders should yield to larger groups of riders.
55. Riders should yield to pack strings.
56. Downhill trail users yield to uphill trail users, regardless if equestrian, hiker, or bicyclist.
57. Keep a horse length between horses to avoid kicking accidents and "rear-endings".
58. Stay alert and be aware of other trail users, general weather conditions, and other potential
trail hazards or obstacles. Don't just watch the trail between your horse's ears.
59. Some riders say a dryer sheet tied in their horse's tail repels flies.
60. If you have to cross a road, make sure to stop your horse and look and listen for cars. If you
need to have a motorist slow down, and you can safely signal them, holding your arm
straight out and then moving it up and down from the shoulder is a generally understood
sign for "slow down".
61. If you will be riding deep into backcountry wilderness, consider learning the proper
techniques for humanely euthanizing your horse, and carry the equipment necessary to do
so. If severely injured on the trail, you may not have any other options.
62. While camping, make sure to find out and abide by all regulations concerning fires. Wild fires
are a serious threat and possibility in some areas.
63. Drink responsibly. Riding while drunk endangers you, your horse, and other trail users.
Alcohol consumption also increases dehydrates you.
64. Allow your horse to cool down before allowing him to drink a lot of water or eat grain. Offer
small amounts of water at first and clean, fresh hay.
65. Allow your horse plenty of time to eat his grain before trailering or riding.
66. Invest in a good pair of riding boots that are also comfortable enough to hike out of the area if
it becomes necessary. Cowboy boots are great for riding, not so great for hiking.
67. Make sure to carry a knife that can cut through your horse's halter, lead rope, etc. in case of
emergency.
68. Make sure to carry a hoof pick. It's an often overlooked item that can be invaluable.
69. If your horse is shod, spray cooking oil spray on the bottom of your horse's hooves to help
keep snow and ice from balling up in his hoof.
70. In cooler weather, dress in several layers. You can always remove layers if you get too
warm. Look for thinner items with good thermal properties. Otherwise you'll feel like the
Stay-Puft Marshmallow Man trying to ride your horse in too many clothes.
71. Try to keep yourself in good physical condition. It will make your horse's job easier, and
yours if you have to hike out of where you're riding.
72. If your horse tosses his head a lot because of flies, consider the Cashel Quiet Ride Fly Mask.
It's designed to be used while riding. From personal experience I can tell you these work
wonders.
73. If you use hay nets to give your horses hay in or at the trailer, don't just tie the tie string to
the tie loop on your trailer. Run the tie string through the netting near the bottom and then
tie it to the tie loop. As your horse eats his hay, the bag won't droop down, possibly
allowing him to get a leg caught.
74. Consider attaching a bell to your horse's saddle, especially if you ride in bear country. It will
also warn other trail users that may be just out of sight that there is someone else on the
trail.
75. Accustom your horse to the feel of loaded saddle bags at all gaits before heading out on the
trail.
76. There are no-bounce saddlebags like Easy Care Stowaways or Snug Pax that make it easier
on your horse to carry saddle bags.
77. Make sure to distribute the weight evenly in your saddle bags.
78. Make sure that hard objects, like hoof boots, won't slap your horse's side with every stride or
he'll end up sore.
79. Use a breastcollar, crupper, and rear cinch as needed. Make sure accustom your horse to
them before you hit the trail.
80. Always connect your rear cinch to your front cinch.
81. Adjust your rear cinch tight enough that a hind hoof can't get caught, but loose enough so
that it won't constrict your horse and annoy him.
82. Periodically check behind you while going down the trail. Then if you have to back-track, it
won't be as unfamiliar and will be easier to find your way.
83. Smaller buckets, like 2-1/2 gallon size, are great for carrying water to your horse if you need
to tote it more than a few feet. The bucket is lighter and easier to manage, although you'll
have to walk back and forth more often. They also take up less space in your tack or
dressing room.
84. Five-gallon gasoline cans that are brand-new and never had gasoline in them make great
containers to take water with you to places that don't have water available. They come
with a handy pour spout and everything. Make sure to mark them clearly though so they
don't accidentally get used for something other than water, or get poured into a gas tank!
85. At campsites and in public facilities like tie stalls, round pens, or picket areas make sure to
scatter your horse's manure outside of the general use area. Or, clean it up and dispose of
in your compost pile at home, or in any designated manure disposal area. Always follow
any posted or special rules regarding manure clean-up.
86. If you will be riding with a large group of horses, and your horse has never done so, he may
act differently than you expect. Be prepared to do what it takes to keep everyone safe,
even if that means not going out on the ride if your horse is unmanageable.
87. Although it is safest to not ride alone, if you choose to do so make sure someone knows
where you are going and when you plan to be back. Take a cell phone, although you may
not get service, and take a map, compass, and other basic survival necessities with you.
Make sure you are riding a seasoned, reliable horse. Even the best horse can slip or get
scared.
88. Use sunscreen. You'd be surprised just how much sun you can get on a ride, especially
before the trees leaf out and after they lose their leaves. Plus, many trails go through
meadows or glades which can be very sunny.
89. Wear a quality riding helmet. Make sure to get one that is specifically designed for equestrian
use--bicycle helmets don't cut it. There are many new designs that are lighter and better
ventilated than ever.
90. Maintain at least a horse-length between your horse and the one in front of you. If they stop
suddenly, you are less likely to run into them. Plus, you are less likely to get kicked if the
horse in front of you gets annoyed with being "tail-gaited".
91. Make sure your horse is comfortable jumping over small obstacles at home before attempting
it on a trail ride. Make sure he isn't frightened of his saddle bags or any other gear that may
flap or bounce.
92. Even if your horse jumps well at home, he may be nervous jumping over a trail obstacle. Be
patient, and stay safe. It's better to go around the obstacle if necessary and try it again
another time.
93. Don't bathe your horse in rivers or cross in non-designated areas. Water quality is a big
concern from some areas, and land management agencies are willing to restrict horse access
if we don't stick to the designated crossings.
94. Check yourself and your horse for ticks after each ride. Lyme disease and other tick-borne
diseases typically aren't transmitted until the tick has been attached for 24-48 hours. Make
sure to not leave the head behind, as it can cause an infection.
95. Use rubbing alcohol or a product like Tecnu to wipe your skin if you come in contact with
poison ivy. The chemical in poison ivy responsible for the rash can get onto clothing,
sleeping bags, tents, and other fabric items and cause break-outs the next time you use the
item, even after a year or more. Wash items as soon as possible after exposure.
96. If you encounter a nest/swarm of yellow jackets, split up and go in as many directions as
possible, meeting up further down the trail. Yell "Bee!" instead of "Run!", so that nobody
sticks around to ask "Why?".
97. Carry a "sting" stick with you to provide relief from any itchy or painful bug bites or stings.
98. Stay alert and be cautious on the trail. It's not unheard of for fugitives to hide out in
wilderness areas, or for there to be illegal activity such as drug dealing, manufacturing, or
growing. Don't confront anyone, and if you think you may be approaching an area where
meth is being manufactured, for example, turn around and leave. Contact the authorities
and let them take care of it. Trust your instincts about other trail users. If something
doesn't feel right, it probably isn't. Leave.
99. Periodically check the condition of your tack. Make sure straps aren't starting to split or
dry-rot, especially your girth straps, off-billets, and bridle. Clean and condition your tack as
necessary. Sweaty, dirty tack is more prone to breaking, usually at the worst possible
moment.
100. Acclimate your horse to any new tack (such as a different bit, a new saddle, etc.) before
you take him out on the trail.
101. Most important of all, don't forget to have FUN!
.
| 101 Trail Riding Tips By Laura Vonk & Lalita Creighton |
| Copyright 2006-2007 Missouri Trailblazing.com. All Rights Reserved |
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